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J&K (Jammu and Kashmir) – Melange of Tales

Melange of Tales

Category: J&K (Jammu and Kashmir)

  • Srinagar – A Travel Guide to Kashmir’s capital

    Srinagar – A Travel Guide to Kashmir’s capital

    Kashmir is a place that has always fascinated me in pictures and stories since childhood. When the time came to explore Kashmir, I was all set with my bags packed days before the journey started. We landed at Srinagar on a sunny afternoon in the month of July where even the sun was setting after 8 pm. I knew that my Kashmir exploration expedition can’t get any better, getting longer days to roam around the city. This post “Srinagar – A Travel Guide to Kashmir’s capital” talks about things to do in Srinagar in 3 days.

    Nishat Garden in Srinagar
    Nishat Garden in Srinagar

    Where to stay?

    I stayed near Dal Gate, Raj Bagh, and in a boat house in Dal Lake. Few of my friends stayed near Lal Chowk and Nigeen lake. Hotel Suggestions
    Hotel Rose Petal
    Lee Heritage
    Walisons Hotel
    The Shelter Heritage A Boutique Hotel and Hostel ( it is quite far from touristy places within the city)

    Boat House Suggestions

    Luxury Inn Badyari Palace Houseboat
    Goona Palace Houseboat (The only issue I had when I stayed here was, after I rated the houseboat an 8 on Booking.com, the owner called me and asked me to change it to 10 which I obviously didn’t do.)

    Where to eat?

    I found veg restaurants near Dal Gate and almost all the hotels and houseboats provided vegetarian food when asked for. Kashmir is heaven for non-vegetarians. ?
    Tip: When you are in Kashmir, kahwa is something that you wouldn’t want to miss.
    Ahdoos restaurant was suggested to me by many but unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to visit.

    How to commute?

    I commuted using an auto rickshaw within the city and took cabs when I wanted to visit Pahalgam and Gulmarg.
    We spent around Rs. 2200 to roam Srinagar in an auto-rickshaw for 2 days. I felt it was worth it because the auto-rickshaw driver used to wait for hours patiently while we visited places.

    Ayub auto
    Ayub Bhai is the one who helped us roam around in Srinagar

    Weather in Srinagar

    April to September – Summer – 16° to 35° C
    October to March – Winter – 0° to 15° C
    Due to Srinagar’s natural location, there is no definite monsoon season. The rains are unpredictable.

    I visited Srinagar in July and August 2021, and it was relatively hot during the days and pleasant during the evenings. It even rained heavily for a day or two during my trip.

    Clothes to wear

    In Summer
    Jeans, trousers, t-shirts, scarf/shawl, woollens (for the evening), umbrella, raincoat
    Note: I can’t stress how important it is to carry scarf/shawl because it is mandatory for women to wear it when entering mosques in Srinagar.

    In Winter
    Thermals, jeans, full sleeve sweaters, woollen socks, cap, jackets, shawls and mufflers or neck warmers.
    Note: You can buy pheran (Kashmiri attire) and wear it anywhere in Kashmir?

    Places to visit (Places I visited)

    Dal Lake

    A whole day can be spent in the Dal lake itself when you are at leisure. There are many things to do in the lake, one of which is the hour long shikara ride during sunset. A shikara can accommodate 4+1 people.

    At around 5am, there is a floating vegetable market that can be visited and it will be available only during that time. There is a floating market where you can find multiple shops on the lake, taking a shikara is the only way to reach the market.

    vegetable vendor at Dal Lake
    Vendor selling veggies at Dal Lake
    nehru park library
    Nehru park with restaurant, coffee shop and library

    There is a library/book store, coffee shop, restaurant and garden in the middle of the lake, very close to Ghat 13. You can spend hours at the library reading or purchasing books. Don’t forget to visit the Floating Post Office near Ghat 13 😀

    Mughal Gardens

    There are umpteen number of gardens in Kashmir which are stunningly beautiful. All the gardens are built in Iranian style and architecture, built in the 1600s. I visited only the most famous ones during my visit. You will notice families with kids picnicking in the gardens.

    Shalimar
    Shalimar Bagh

    Timings: 9.30 am – 6.30 to 8 pm (closing time varies)
    Ticket: Rs.24/- (Adult) and Rs.12/- (Child)
    Note: The garden closing time depends on when the sun sets. In July the sunset was at 8 pm and hence we were in the gardens till 8 pm.

    I visited Pari Mahal, Chashme Shahi, Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh.
    Click here to read my blog post on my experience at these Mughal Gardens in detail.

    Shankaracharya Temple

    It is said that Adi Shankaracharya wrote the most famous “Saundarya Lahari” when he was here. We climbed around 250 steps to reach the shrine. The temple was constructed at various phases by various kings.

    Sankaracharyar temple Srinagar
    Bird’s eye view of Srinagar while descending from the hills of Sankaracharyar temple

    This is the place where we got a bird’s eye view of the entire city of Srinagar which was stunningly beautiful. Unfortunately, we weren’t allowed to take phones or cameras since the Indian Army was stationed at the temple. There was thorough checking before we were allowed to enter the temple premises. We had to hand over our phones and cameras to the Indian Army.

    Zeeshta Devi Mandir

    This temple was on the Pari Mahal road but on the other side of the hill. There was a small temple with guest rooms to stay. There was nothing else there apart from that. We stayed there for 5-10 mins and returned.

    Jamia Masjid

    This is the biggest mosque in Kashmir valley, located in downtown Srinagar. The mosque was constructed and renovated in different centuries by different kings. It has also been subject to damage by fire during Aurangazeb’s reign.

    Jama Masjid Srinagar
    Jama Masjid Srinagar

    The masjid has a magnificent courtyard with 350+ pillars. It was massive. I had never been to a mosque that was as big as Jamia Masjid. It can accommodate 30,000+ people at once. During festivals, people from all over the world are said to visit this masjid.

    Jama Masjid
    Walking inside Jama Masjid premises

    Hazratbal Dargah

    This is one of the most famous Dargahs in the world. According to local beliefs, the Shrine houses the sacred hair of Prophet Muhammad’s beard. When I visited Hazaratbal which was also on the banks of Dal Lake, it was a Friday and there were many women praying in the outer hall.

    Hazratbal shrine
    Hazratbal Shrine

    Gurudwara Chati Pat Shahi

    This is one of the most revered Sikh pilgrimage sites in Kashmir.

    Srinagar Gurudwara
    Gurudwara

    Shah-E-Hamdan

    I hadn’t seen a mosque that is as vivacious as Shah-E-Hamdan. I still remember the vivid colors, wall paintings, pigeons and wonderful people when I think of it. It was located on the banks of River Jhelum.

    Shah-e-hamdan birds
    Shah-E-Hamdan
    Aarthy Shah-e-hamdan
    Happy me at Shah-E-Hamdan

    Shopping in Srinagar

    Kashmir is known for its carpets, woollens, pashmina shawls, saffron, dry fruits, spices, rajma, woodwork, crafts and much more.

    I have a habit of collecting souvenirs at whichever place I go, and I found a one stop shop called Kashmir Art Centre which had everything I had in my mind to buy.
    Note: You will find many shopkeepers selling items in Dal Lake at a premium to tourists. Most often it’s a rip off and the products may not even be genuine.

    There are many markets in Srinagar like Lal Chowk, Residency Road, Badshah Chowk, Polo View Market and Raghunath Bazaar.

    Kashmir means a lot of things to me, and Srinagar was a place which I felt it welcomed everyone who respected and accepted the place, people and their livelihood.
    Click here to read my other travel tales from Kashmir.

    Aarthy in Dal Lake
    Soaking into the beauty of the lake
  • Mughal Gardens of Srinagar

    Mughal Gardens of Srinagar

    Mughal Gardens of Srinagar are attractive and mind-blowingly beautiful. They are all located at close proximity to the Dal Lake with the Zabarwan range in the backdrop. This post is to showcase how lovely the Mughal Gardens of Srinagar are.

    Long history made short

    The Shah Mir dynasty ruled Kashmir in the 14th century and were believed to be immigrants from Persia. Along with them the Persian influence also came into Kashmir which brought the religion – Islam, language, customs, dress, art, craft, music and the art of gardening. 

    The newly established dynasty built many gardens all over the valley with water fountains & terraces, and they planted variety of flowers, plants and trees from the valley. The Mughals conquered Kashmir in the 16th century, and they fine-tuned the existing pattern of gardening.

    Pari Mahal entrance
    Pari Mahal

    Click here to read more about the history of the gardens in Kashmir. 

    Mughal Gardens 

    The Mughal Gardens in Kashmir are said to be the most beautiful gardens out of all the Mughal gardens in India which were built during the Mughal Period.

    The Mughal Gardens of Shalimar, Nishat, Chashme Shahi and Pari Mahal in Srinagar along with Verinag and Achabal in Ananthnag are said to demonstrate outstanding garden engineering skills. The water fountains, terraces as raised walkways, centuries old Chinar(Maple) trees that change colors with every season add to the beauty of the place. 

    Timings: 9.30 am – 6.30 to 8 pm (closing time varies) 
    Price:
    Adult – Rs.24/-
    Child – Rs.12/-
    Note: The garden closing time depends on when the sun sets. In July the sunset was at 8 pm and hence we were in the garden premises till 8 pm.

    Pari Mahal

    Pari Mahal is a 7 terraced garden, located at the top of a mountain range that overlooks the city of Srinagar. The view of the city and Dal Lake that you get from Pari Mahal is stunningly beautiful.

    Pari Mahal monument
    Entrance to Pari Mahal
    Pari Mahal top
    View from terrace

    Chashme Shahi 

    This is another beautiful garden which is at a 5 min drive from Pari Mahal. It is built around a freshwater spring (where we also filled our water bottles) that is said to have medicinal properties. There are fountain pools within the garden which looked beautiful. 

    Garden
    Entering Chashme Shahi

    Nishat Bagh 

    Nishat Bagh was amazingly big (2nd largest in Srinagar) and very well maintained. If there was a garden which I would call as my favourite, it would be Nishat Bagh. There were numerous water fountains and the backdrop of Zabarwan range also made it stunningly beautiful. 

    Entering Nishat Bagh
    Nishat Water Fountains
    Water Fountains

    Note: I went to Kashmir during Eid and hence you are seeing so many people in the gardens. This isn’t always the case.

     Nishat exit
    Nishat walkways

    Shalimar Bagh 

    The largest garden in Srinagar is the Shalimar Bagh. I thought it wasn’t possible for a garden to match the beauty and grandiose of Nishat but Shalimar proved me wrong. This garden was equally pretty and massive in size. There were numerous water fountains in different patterns. This garden also had many trees that were centuries old, especially the Chinar. 

    Shalimar Entrance
    Shalimar Entrance
    Shalimar walkways and water fountains
    Walkway and Water Fountains

    In the uppermost terrace of Shalimar Bagh there is said to be this inscription “Agar Firdaus bar rōy-e zamin ast, hamin ast-o hamin ast-o hamin ast”  by the Persian-language poet Amir Khusrau. This literally translates to “If there is a paradise on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here.” 

    Other noticeable gardens 

    Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden

    This is Asia’s largest Tulip Garden at the foothills of Zabarwan range. It houses 45+ varieties of tulips and several other varieties of flowers. The annual tulip festival is held in the month of April (Spring season), when the tulips are in full bloom. 

    Nehru Memorial Botanical Garden 

    This garden contains a large variety of plants, trees, oaks and ornamental plants. It was established in the memory of Jawaharlal Nehru. 

    Mughal Gardens of Srinagar is something which is never to be missed when you are on a trip to Kashmir. I spent my whole evening soaking in the beauty of the Mughal Gardens which are constructed skillfully and maintained well.

    Me in Nishat
    Happy me!

    Click here to read my other travel posts.

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